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Corvette Stingray C2 Restore


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​In this chapter, we will assemble the parts to the finished frame.

​ Since we are planning to change from manual transmission to automatic, we will modify the transmission mount and temporarily attach the propeller shaft.

​The brake pipes and fail pipes installed around the front and rear suspension will also be replaced with new ones.


​3-001 2015/10/17

I forgot to take a picture of just the chassis. It is being moved by being tied to a forklift with a gatcha. Even if I run a car shop, they won't let me use the factory. As long as I miss you.


But it's good. i have a container
This container is great. There is a container door at the left handle car door. I am using it as a garage. But now it's my private garage.


Look inside the garage. Removed parts and new parts.
It's cramped and very inefficient. But for me, it's like heaven.
It's like a secret base that I used to enjoy when I was a kid.


As for the picture around the steering wheel, I overhauled the power steering cylinder, but it will soon leak oil. This is a creation that will not stop. Looking at the catalog, there was one with a power steering on the handle box. I will try to do that next time.


It's a handle shaft. My other photos are gone.
I took it apart for the first time, but it's an interesting build.
I was impressed with how well thought out it was.


Parts list. I am checking the clearance in the lower right photo.
A manual would be helpful.


Assembling the gas tank. I got it from an acquaintance.
There are some places after the repair. Upon closer inspection, there were 4 holes.
What should I do? ?


I was wondering whether to use it as a new one or repair it, but I decided to repair it and use it.
It has been treated to be rust resistant. The material is POR15.
I also wanted to try it once. If it doesn't work, all you have to do is buy a new one☆



It is a gauge (new article). Thanks to this guy, I remembered something I didn't like.
I used to rent a garage with shutters. After years of hibernating in a garage, the o-rings corroded and ran out of rotten gasoline. It is a big deal when the landlord calls out to the neighbors for a strange smell. It's just a plain apology... but it ends up getting kicked out.
Why are you on the bottom...? This wouldn't have happened if I had been on top...


Installation of gas tank. The red gas tank color is clear.
I don't think there will be any leaks with this, but it's a perforated tank, so it's a nightmare for me.


From here I will enter the rear suspension.
Since this Corvette was built in 1964, it originally had four-wheel drum brakes.  
I replaced the undercarriage of C3 before.


I turned it over. considerable rust. I can't wait to see how beautiful it will be.


I took it apart. It looks like it has very little rust for its age.


The tip of the trailing arm, the part that connects to the frame. Thank you for cracking the bush.
It's less painful than I expected.


trailing arm
Where the paint finish was made from the sandblasting process.
We will insert the bush from here, but be careful as the mounting part is soft.


Right is before processing, left is after processing. I am chamfering the taper.
Do not protrude from the surface when crimping. Sims will become unfamiliar when exiting.


Before crimping.


I just caulked it.

​Because it is tapered, it cannot be pulled out.


Caulking involves inserting the shaft and hitting it with a hammer.
It's a special tool for this one. You won't use it twice.
It will be ordered from the United States and will be stored in the warehouse from now on.
You'll probably forget some of them.


It was completed. It looks perfect, but I prepared and practiced two sets.
Only one bush left.


I searched. I found.
Not in the manual. I looked many times but couldn't find it.
i found it on the net. I was relieved.

​ in the Corvette America parts list.


A special tool for replacing the rear hub bearings.
Clearance must be taken. It's a very sensitive part.
Adjust up to 1/100.

​will be shelved as well.


Practice to build a spindle. I will put together an image like this.
Replace the shim between the bearing and the bearing to provide clearance.
Sims are in the bottom right corner. The thickness is slightly different.


I use the dial gauge for the first time in a while. One rotation of the needle is 1 mm.
There are 100 memories in one round. 1 memory is 0.01mm.
Convert this to inches and calculate.


There are also special tools here.
I will incorporate it into the trailing arm.
Joining the storehouse If you have only this, you won't be lonely.


done. New spindles, bearings, oil seals and side brakes.
The brake rotor is placed on top of this.


Installed the front hub bearing.
I am addicted to BARDAHL grease, oil, and lubricating spray.
Use slightly better grease and oil.


I will assemble it here. New upper and lower ball joints.
The uppers, lowers, bushes and stoppers are also brand new.
Red brake hose and brake pipe are stainless steel. Fashionable where you can't see ☆
It's an uncle's manners.


I will assemble as much as possible. Do not retighten. Just lightly hand-tighten.
The hub nut is also borrowed.


Polishing disc brake rotors. Brand new, polished... I was at a loss, but I will polish.
More than 30 years have passed even for C3 parts. Since the material is casting, it is polished.
A good surface plate for casting should be exposed to the rain for 10 to 20 years before polishing.

​I expect that this will also be matured and fit.


Cutting while rotating. You can tell it's a casting by looking at the shavings.
After more than 30 years, it has been distorted by applying heat while running, so it will not distort any more.
Polishing to remove distortion, in the past everyone used polishing.


Polishing finished. Grind 4 rotors in the same place.
Same size front and back.
As for how to distinguish between the front and rear, the rear has a side brake adjustment hole.


What you have to be careful about here is the thickness when polished.
The stamped numbers on the brake rotor indicate the minimum thickness. I'm going to do a polishing finish so that it won't be thinner than this.
I haven't used it yet, so I painted it black with a spray can. Don't rust ◎


I painted the diff. It is troublesome to remove rust and dirt from the gaps.
I want to sandblast it, but I'm afraid sand will get in, so I use a wire brush and paper.

​ looks like a monkfish hanging


I'm a little worried, so I'll take a look inside. It seems that the oil should be cleaned with a trowel, but this time I will only change the oil. I will be overhauling it in half a year to a year after starting running, so I will be patient this time.


I make it using packing paper in a nostalgic way. I used to do it a lot when I was a kid.
Apply oil to the main body and press packing paper to make a mold. Cut along the pattern and make holes with a punch.


Complete! You can glimpse the packing paper. I don't think it will leak oil.


Next, I will start processing the mission mount.
I'm thinking of changing the mission from M/T to A/T.
It can be easily done by processing when the frame is in the state.
It seems that the recommended mission is "TH400". It seems to be used in a drag race...


I cut and made processed parts. We take out the dimensions and start welding.


This processing makes it possible to use it for both M/T and A/T missions.


It also comes with a processed side brake so that the bracket is attached.
Tighten together using the slotted holes.
This will be for M/T missions.


This specification is for A/T missions.
The place where the mission mount is located can be adjusted with a slotted hole.
Both missions are now available.


This is just finished.
I'm 60 years old and I can't ride a M/T mission forever.
I prefer the easy A/T mission.


It might be hard to tell from the picture above.
If this is the case, use the M/T mission.
A mount is attached before the A/T. The side brake lever is also this street.
I thought about making the side members detachable, but I settled on this one.


The brake pipe and stainless steel pipe are thick on the left frame.
You can also see the side brake wire. The right frame has a fuel pipe. Parts are available up to this point.


Parts arrived from America. It takes about a month after ordering.
This time, it is a set of wiring, exhaust, muffler, headlight related parts, tail panel, skirt, insulation material for instrument panel, bolts, clips.


It is difficult to sort bolts and clips.
The part number is an alternative part number, the set is separated, the rose is set, and their generosity...
This time, the total weight was 116 kg, and I was stopped at customs and asked many questions.
Parts name, material, purpose of use... Automobile parts are tax-free, but consumption tax is charged. Why are you paying to America? ?


Now that the body parts have arrived, let's move on to the body.
While enjoying the body, I will order additional parts related to the mechanism and frame.


The muffler has arrived.
It seems to be for high rpm exhaust set in the center.
I misunderstood. For the time being, let's make a temporary appearance!


summarized in its entirety. 2-1/2...a little thick.
I think 2 inches would have been fine.


The rear view is also nice. I can't wait to see what it sounds like.
Everyone seems to like the muddy sound, but I think it's a bad sound...
The V8 is...well.


It seems to be a manufacturer called "MAGNAFLOW". It seems to be famous, but I don't know.
I want to start a fire quickly.


I finished it so far during the New Year holidays. I didn't go as far as I thought.


It fit perfectly where I had previously mounted it.
I was going to install a TH-400, but it's easier to ride a 4-speed transmission than a 3-speed one. 2 cm longer at the mount position☆


This mission uses a Corvette C4.
I replaced the rear housing so that the mission mount can be attached.
It seems to be called 700R4 4L60. There are 5 different body lengths.
The C4 type seems to be an intermediate length.


The speedometer cable hits the muffler tunnel.
After one difficulty, another one.


I cut it ◎ I cut the tunnel part.
This doesn't seem to work, but you won't know what's there until you've tacked everything on.


As seen from above, behind the gear is the lockup part.  
With this length, you'll have to use an L-shaped part and bend it 90 degrees to connect the meter cable...

​Look for it I think I've seen it somewhere.


I'm running two spot coolers ◎ 
It's still hot This year it's 40 degrees in many places.  
Work during the Obon holidays It's too hot to do in a container, so I thought I'd do it in a factory, but it's hot 
I wanted to fire up the engine during this holiday 
It's my first time building a V8, but it looks like it will work fine 
The goal of this holiday, fire, let's light it up


I took the wrong flex plate last time and it didn't fit, so I'm going to fix it ◎ 
The hole position of the crankshaft is different or the hole position of the torque converter is different.  
Install and check first 
I'm thinking   that 3 bolts on the converter will get 2 types of converters.  


This time, 163 teeth B&M ◎ I decided on this company name because it was a company name that I heard a lot from long ago.  
In addition, cell motor made in Japan Hitachi decision  
153 teeth 168 teeth It seems that this can also be used.  
Turn the cell and you'll be super surprised 3mm swings left and right 
Find the cause or move on  
The purpose of this time is to put fire 
I will look into it next time


Pushrods, rocker arms, nuts, etc. are divided into IN EX  
Incorporate while cleaning  
The valve was shortened because the one oil did not rise well 

​I wonder why


Oil retainer Well thought out Great idea 
I wonder who made it I'm really curious  
I tried pushing 16 with the push rod.
I took a few pieces apart Some of them work after cleaning 
Oil maintenance will come to such a place 
Correct answer by preparing a new product 
​Maybe this is why the valve was worn out.


Next, pump the oil by turning the pump.  
I remember seeing this method somewhere and tried it.
Please remove the cam gear.
The air ratchet rotates and the oil rises.   Oil check complete.


Next is tappet adjustment This idea is also a great combination with an oil lifter  
No. 1 explosion top dead center I can adjust which number and which number at once, but I forgot 
First, adjust the top dead center of the first explosion and turn it 90 degrees, then turn it by 90 degrees to the next explosion top dead center No. 8 No. 4 No. 3 No. 6 No. 5 No. 7 No. 2 Adjustment Let's go one by one.


Oil pump rod 
When you slide it, it will slide down.
It is OK to put it in after applying grease so that it does not fall.  
Easy to attach the pump.


Check to install a heat shield 
Hit the throttle rod 
I'm going to scrape the injured part 
I think there used to be something made of a material for heat shielding, but I can't remember 
Keeping up with the times  


I got a fire.
With the carburetor removed, pour gasoline into the intake manifold with a dropper,   connect the wiring and turn the cell. Move the time and turn the cell Yatter 
Repeat several times This works Eight pipes have the same heat.
Next time, let's attach a carb and pump it up from the fuel pump


It's a break 
I can't do it when it's this hot.


I said it was hot, but suddenly it became cold.
After three years of fiddling with it, I got a little tired of it. Iku I ordered the wrong size by mistake, so it's very well made, but I can't forgive that the one I ordered this time is 3mm off.


Measure the crankshaft, no problem at all.  
I can't help it, so I'll check it little by little. Why is it so touching?I wonder if the quality of B&M's products has deteriorated?Is it because they are made in a certain country due to cost?  



Measurement of the flex plate Measure six places. I will fill in the error   but this is a bit terrible bb3b-136bad5cf58d_If it's domestic, I'll try to fix it.  


Speaking of B&M, it's first class, but I'm lonely 


Measurement results Now, how to proceed?  


First, remove the overall strain. It may be elastic and not warp. It will work out.   play play play
If not, I will order again.  



Next, press the inner ring part.  
I feel like I can do something about it.  
At first it was welded with a jig, so it was distorted by the heat  
Or maybe it was welded in a state of slack, or if it was distorted by heat, I feel like it will return.  


Surprisingly, I returned to being honest, so I used a milling machine to correct the distortion.


It will be a picture of the front and back 
Both are cut with a minimum thickness of 0.5 mm or less, so it will be within the allowable range.


Finishing Measurement Measurement 3/100 The finish is about 3/100.  
You can use this.  
I just want to say one word.

​3-080 2020/1/30

I got it out of the container.

I forgot to take a picture of it being dragged out with a winch.

​Let's take it down here and prepare to enter the factory.


Taken from the second floor of the factory.

​The engine is also on standby.

During the New Year holidays, I was having fun alone.

​ To the public, you don't look smart.


Push the Corvette with heavy machinery and put it into the factory.

You can see the green pipe in the middle.

Make a joint in the frame, connect, and move forward.

​Working alone in everything It's a bit painful.


2 air conditioner hoses and 2 heater hoses in the engine room.

​ Before starting the engine, the air conditioning unit is installed in the room, and the hose is in the engine room.

​Preliminary preparation before inserting the engine.

​ With this engine, there seems to be no problem.


Use a chain block so that you can fine-tune the lifting in four places.


Snapped into place.

The combination of bright yellow and black looks great.

​The alternator and power steering pump are still old, so the dirtiness looks even better.


Shift lever from inside.

I'm glad I drilled the big hole as planned.

​It is easy to work and you can check it.


I put joints on the left and right sides of the muffler.

​Twisting occurs when left and right are used alone, so you can eliminate it by attaching this.


When I put it on the floor, it looks like this, I wonder if the muffler is lowered too much

If you raise it, the floor will burn, so let's see how it goes.

I'll lower the car a little bit more, so it's okay.

​ Fine adjustments can be made, so let's see how it goes.


I installed the condenser.

If you connect the pipes and make it a natural shape, the condenser will be attached to the left.

Is something wrong?


I have a bad feeling, it can't be right, right?


Temporarily attached. After all, it will need to be reworked from here.

Grind the water pump mounting part.

The bolt holes attached to the three plates are misaligned.

Put a shim in the pipe where the muffler is installed and adjust.

somehow settled. This took me half a day.

​I wonder if it's fun to not make any progress in a day.


The pump is installed, the belt for the alternator is temporarily attached, and the pulley line seems to be out.

I can't use it for a compressor because it's too thin.

More than that, there are belts, thin parts, and thick parts.

With this, it can not be used for the alternator, and it is too long, so it will be redone. How many bottles do I have to order to get a decent one?

​It seems like I'm doing a lot of useless things.

​3-093 2020-02-29

​Fail pump nipples and spanners cannot be inserted, soThen adjust and cut.

​ I forgot to take a picture of the hose, and will update it later.


​Installation of the radiator and cooler condenser, if you attach it according to the piping, the condenser will move to the left.

​ This is how it is, position it, drill a hole, crimp the shrimp nut, and tighten the bolt.



Radiator piping, first time to use steel products outside the company.

You have more freedom than you think.

The alternator is also cleared without difficulty

I also cleared that the lower hose has a considerable angle.

​ pretty good stuff.


I put a filter under the gas tank.

I processed a copper pipe and twisted it.




It's a fuel filter.

First, Holly mechanical, fuel leak.

Second, the holey electric pump is stuck and does not turn.

Although it came to operate disassembled, there is anxiety and it can not be used.

Third, Edelbrock, mechanical, I'll try using it from now on. Just before the nipple hits the frame, it's bigger than Holly, and somehow it's the third time.

​, the fuel has been hit.

​In addition, the number of defective products has increased.


The Edelbrock mechanical pump also leaked.

It's a lot of trouble to replace the holey electric pump and remake the copper pipe.

I used 5 fail pumps.

I am thoroughly cursed.

If you get ripped off, you're going to be in big trouble. ​​

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