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Corvette Stingray C2 Restore




In this chapter, we will peel off the inner and outer coating, return to the base, and correct the distortion.

Remove all parts.

Fix cracks, deterioration and line disturbances.

​If you cut corners here, it will affect the finish, so it's a game of perseverance.

​4-001  2016/12/27

The cheering squad also came, so I'm going to start processing the body side.
It's been exactly a year since I started working on it.


Make a floor by laying an iron plate in a vinyl garage.
Put the body on the dolly inside and make a dedicated workbench. It will be my first challenge.
Check the strength of the single pipe and create an image by considering the approximate weight of the body.


Attach a single pipe to the mounting part of the body and frame.
The vertical black pipe uses a thick pipe instead of a single pipe. Weld an iron plate to one side of the pipe, cover it with a lid, and make a hole. I'm going to fix it with the body through the bolt there.


Assemble all four in the same way. I will connect long single pipes to the left and right there.
Left and right, front and back, top and bottom, while doing temporary assembly


This part will be on the front left side.

Proceed while measuring the left and right in the same way.


This part will be the rear mounting part.

I don't think you can tell from these photos.

I think you'll find out as you go along.


This part will be the part behind the right rear tire.
I'm going to put my arm out from here and connect it to a single pipe.


This part is the head baffle. It will be the part where the radiator will be attached.
The pipe is extended to the left and right and connected to the front and rear single pipes.


I feel like this.
The radiator mounting part, the front body member, the rear body member, and the member behind the rear tire are all connected to a single tube.
Align the left and right sides and adjust while checking the level.


It will be the front part. It rotates around the black pipe in the center of the left and right of the headlight.


Rotated 90 degrees. It's an acrobatics in this narrow space.


Rotated 180 degrees. Rotate 360 degrees.
It is manual, but can be fixed in any position.

I'm thinking about how easy it is to work.

You can't do a good job when people do it in an unreasonable posture.
I enjoy doing this.


The gap between the body and the ground is about 15 cm. It's going to be a work while chilling, but it's very easy to work with rotating.
When you rotate it, there are heavy parts and light parts, so proceed while making adjustments.


I'll take it apart anyway.

After that, the skin will be exposed, but this is a very difficult and persevering job.
It is difficult to remove the residue from the bond.

It gets tangled in the eyes of the paper and becomes useless immediately.


I will do my best until the dirt on the underbody comes out.

I wonder how many days it will take, I feel faint.
As for the body this time, we will divide the work into the front part, the interior, the underbody, and the rear area.


I will also disassemble the instrument panel.

First of all, we will finish the interior and underbody.
It's fine to do it all at once, but it's just to make sure you don't forget or lose parts.

You can also enjoy a sense of accomplishment if you finish it little by little.

​4-017   2017/1/18

We will remove the meter. It's burning here and there.
There is also a disconnection. You can also see the short marks.

I will try to take a lot of pictures so that I don't make a mistake because there are similar wiring and light bulbs.


You can see a round light bulb in the middle part. There is a light bulb on the left.
The sticking part is made of cardboard.

When I pulled out the light bulb, the cardboard was burnt.
I'm surprised. It doesn't catch fire very often.


I have removed the meter.

It is the back side, but there is a short-circuit mark.
The trip meter reset knob extends from the center to the lower left.

It's getting tattered.


The insulation is crumbling inside. Ducts cannot be used either.
When I think about finishing this, I feel like it's a long way off.
I haven't finished it yet, so...


A set of instrument panel wiring.
It's not that much, but when I got it, I felt like it was more.
It may be hard on the whole, and there may be a lot of resistance to current, so I will replace it with a new one.


Dirty. Just wiping with thinner will not clean it.
It is a job that requires perseverance.
I will remove the steel bracket etc. Most are riveted.


Still the steel part has rust corrosion.
The window frame is made by layering the glass fiber of the body on the steel frame.
There is rust in the same place on the left and right, and water has accumulated.
I was relieved that this rust was only on the surface.


The top of the door catch is also rotten and has a hole.
This part is called a drip rail, and it is like a rain gutter to prevent rainwater from entering the room.
I don't want to change

I have a feeling it's going to be exaggerated.

I'll check it out a little more.


The left front pillar is difficult to see in the photo.
This part is very rusty.
When it comes to welding, I have to think about how to deal with the fire on the body itself.


Feel free to replace it.
How to replace it... I'm worried about bond alone.
With riveting, if there is a protrusion, the lining may not stick.


Since it is attached by spot welding, that part is scraped off with a drill.
The point to show your skill is how to avoid damaging the opponent's main body as much as possible.
It's been over 10 years since I left the field. I'm a little worried.


that! connected inside. How far is it? ?


Anxiety is on the mark. It's getting more and more exaggerated.
I even cut the body. The troublesome work is increasing.
But it also adds to the fun.


The right side is also rusty.


For the time being, I will do rust prevention treatment.
Remove the paint and remove the rust from the areas painted black.
You can see the window frame removed inside.


American made product. It seems to be popular with people who restore.
I'm looking forward to seeing how much rust can be suppressed with this guy.
Processing of the part here is entrusted until the parts arrive.


I was asked to come out of the warehouse.

Let me take another step forward.
I'm going to take care of it while putting oil in it and use it.


I'm kind of bored.

I'm starting work for now.
Rest time is longer than work...


This is a must. Use an exhaust duct for dust control.
Wrap a towel around your mask and head and proceed with work in full protection.


The shift lever is cut off.

I don't remember well because it happened before, but I think it happened like this.
I remembered that it was difficult to remove the shift lever when detaching the engine mission.

I remember it was difficult to remove the propeller shaft bolt.


First, let's return it to its original form. The pink one will be the mold.
I put paper tape on the aluminum plate. Do not use a release agent.

Use paper tape instead.
Double layer of paper tape.

Even if the first piece gets entangled in the resin, the second piece of tape can be used to remove the mold.


Apply resin and wait for it to dry.

You can clearly see the shape of the mold by applying resin.
It's been a long time since I played with fiberglass.

Adjust the amount of hardener to the specified amount.
The composition of the hardener also changes depending on the season.


Since it has hardened, I will set it so that the guide of the shift lever is attached next.
I will cut from where I drew the red line.

Considering workability, it is a detachable type.

The aluminum plate is used as a bracket until the cradle is made.


I cut. This is where the fine work begins.



The aluminum plate cut earlier is fixed.
The tape is a seal so that the liquid of the resin does not leak.


This is the view from the mission side.
Paper tape is also used as a release agent. It's double layered.
It is easier to turn over the paper tape if it is lightly stretched rather than firmly pressed.


I just finished pasting the glass fiber resin.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it will be finished.

About 7 to 8 sheets are stacked in this frame part.
There are many types of fibers.

I use #380 which is easy to use.


I just removed the mold. Two pieces of paper tape are correct.
I will wait for it to dry for the time being.
If you continue like this, it will become sticky and difficult to work with.


Ribs are ready. Start cutting from here.
The thickness is about 6mm.


It will be a picture from the back side. You can clearly see that it is thick.
We will adjust the thickness and width.


Temporarily attach the jack nut and determine the width while aligning the position.


Since the width position has been decided, I will cut it.


Install the jacknut and you are done.


If you can make a service hole this big, the work will be expedited.
Installation of the shift lever and installation of the propeller shaft can be done at once.

It will be work considering the exchange from M / T mission to A / T mission someday.


Right rear tire house.
A hammer, a chisel for woodworking, etc. will be used to remove coatings, sealers, etc.

You always come to know what is good towards the end.


will be on the other side. Dirt will come off little by little.
Just silently delete it.


A little dirt has come off.

Remove the steel parts from here.
We will continue to repair fiberglass.
You can also see cracks and scorching from the muffler.

If you don't consider the position of the muffler and install it, the car will burn.


It's time for swallows. It's time for a little break.
A longer break...


Now that the base material is exposed and the interior is clean, I will apply the top coat.


It's painted over. It would be nice if you could calm down with the luster as it is☆


The entire room is painted.


The underbody color looks different, but although it is gray, this bluish color looks better.


Finishing the engine room. I think it looks great.
I will compliment myself. A gift of canned coffee.


I'm going to repair the left inner fender. You can see that it splits vertically.
I'm going to put glass fiber on it, so I'm going to drop the dirt with paper.


It will be a picture from the tire house on the side where the tire is attached.
Remove dirt and treat with paper to make it easier to stick.


It's ready. The one on the right is a special wooden mold.
Apply two pieces of paper tape according to the mold.

Substitute for release agent.


Paste the class fiber. We will hold the wooden pattern with a clamp.
This hold will be the point. Don't hold back too much or not enough.


It will be a picture from the tire house. Parts that cannot be done with wooden molds are screwed to aluminum plates.


I removed the wooden mold. I'm going to scrape off the protruding place.


It's just scraped off.
It's quite a workmanship even with a sloppy wooden pattern.
I am satisfied ◎


I just removed the wooden pattern from the tire house.

This is also a great result.


The joint of the inner fender was rough, so I puttyed it, but...
I don't have a before picture. It has nice rounded lines.


I will reveal the seeds.
I applied paper tape to the pipe, applied putty, and pressed the pipe on top of it to make a mold.
Once it was dry and removed, it rolled up together with the putty. Drying is recommended.


From here I will enter the head light relationship.
This part is for mounting the headlight motor and fixing the left and right headlights.
The one above is what I have used so far. Below are the replacement parts.


It becomes a bracket to attach the left and right headlights.
If you make a mistake in this position, the headlight will be distorted.


Flip the body over and attach it.
Since the steel part and glass fiber cannot be attached, a piece of part is inserted in the middle, fixed with rivets, and then fixed with panel bond.
The pot life is about 30 minutes, so proceed with caution.


Next, install the left and right brackets.
Measure the left and right balance and fix it 10 mm wider than the headlight body.
Next, measure the gap between the top and bottom. Glue with panel bond.


fixed in this way.
I'm going to scrape off the protruding bond part and shape it.


Next is the part where the hood is opened, but what do you say...? ?
Is it the folded part, the flange?
It was a mess, so I scraped it off and remade it☆


The material is a 5mm square plastic stick found at a home center, 1m long.
Heat it with a heater and bend it. I used 6 bottles including practice.


Collect and fix as much as you can, such as Shakoman and clamps. I also use panel bond.
This bond has a pot life of about 30 minutes, so you can work slowly and accurately, and you can redo it, so it is useful.


I painted.
I got the whole atmosphere. Now you can see the roughness, so you can start finishing.  
Dyed in the same color as it becomes difficult to check with the color of the base, the color of the putty, and other colors.


I'm going to finish the putty.


The left inner groundwork is finished.


From here, we will finish the rear area.
For the finish painting of the front part, after the lower part has been processed, paint from the front to the back at once.

Cut the rear end panel.

If you look closely at the part where the paint has been peeled off, you can see black streaks.

It will be the connecting part, so cut it.


I cut. The previous finish is not good, so I will replace it with a new panel.


What is held down by Shakoman is the backing for attaching external sales panels.
I forgot the name of the part... I'm going to scrape the back and put out the level.


Installed. It looks good, but the new panel is distorted.
I should have ordered a pressed product without being stingy.

I regret it.
I'm still relieved because it looks like it's going to be hidden by the bumper...


will be up. Panel bond sticks out.
Secure with a drill screw, and remove the screw when dry.
It is patchy and unsightly.


It's from the back. Attach a wire stopper to the back.
Thanks to this backing, it is easy to measure.


After the panel bond dried, I scraped off the protruding part and pasted the glass fiber.
When dry, scrape again.


I scraped off the paint film on the left rear fender. The lines are clean.
Also, you can see a black line from front to back about 3 cm below the top.
This will also be the part that connects the top and bottom.


I just painted it. I painted it before the glass fiber dried, so it was rough.
Finally, I will paint the whole thing, so I will reprocess it.


I have all the parts that I used to cut and left as they are, so I'm going to replace them.


Clean after replacement.
Originally, it was fixed by spot welding, but after much deliberation, it was fixed by panel bond and rivet.  
I don't want it to rust. Because now there is a very good adhesive ◎


Reinstall the cut panel in its original position.


Differentiate between coarse and fine fibers. Proceed while checking the familiarity with the resin.


From here we will open the door.
Chisels are necessities, the one I used to scrape off the paint in the old days was the one that I put on my waist and shaved by hand to make a surface plate. I borrowed it from the president of a company that did machining and cut it. I remember my hands full of beans.


Just scrape the outside.


Fleas are great☆
I'm not good at sharpening chisels, but when I sharpen well, the paint film rises up like a fountain and is very beautiful. But goggles are a must.


Prepare the surfacer by spreading paper 80 evenly.


​Finish the back in the same way.


Yes, we've come this far ◎
The surfacer is finished on the left and right of the door, but the real thing starts from here.
It's just a matter of removing all the dirt from the past. I'm going to put my heart into the face of the future.

​4-100 2018/3/12

Apply strain relief putty. I'm not good at this.
Anyway, scrape it off and apply putty. Scrape, paint, repeat...


scrape off the paint. I'm going to take out the base. Scrape while checking for scratches and cracks.


Apply the putty after the paint film has been scraped off. and scrape.
The dryer has only one power supply for the jet heater 100V.


Far infrared dryer 100V power is not available. I want 200V, but I can't pull in the wiring. Let's endure.


Most of the putty processing is nearing the end, but...


The rear view of this car is nice.
Scrape Scrape until you are satisfied. Recently my eyesight has deteriorated.
It's hard to tell if it's not glossy...


Temporarily attach the tail lamp. It was sharp.
The number frame is not familiar. Bad panel or bad parts?
This is homework for later.


Apply spray putty. Drying is a far-infrared dryer and a jet heater.
Let's take it easy ◎


I feel refreshed. It's been almost 20 years since I left the site, but I wonder if I can still use it ☆


Yes, it's finished drying. Let's cut it. Let's apply the putty.
Scrape until the distortion disappears. Let's apply the putty. until you are satisfied.


From here we will finish the front end.
Scrape off the paint film and apply a little putty to see the balance.


I have had several accidents before.
The front panel has been replaced from the middle.
After all, I think that the genuine product has a good level of perfection.
The replaced parts seem to be a little inferior, but I have no choice but to do it.


There are 3 head lamp cases. It must have been broken in an accident before the red one above.
Made by hand. The one below is new.
The dimensions are slightly different, but they are well made. Amazing☆


I tried to pretend. The left and right brackets are tight.
Make sure you are in position. It seems to be moderate.


How many millimeters should the left gap be adjusted to?


Right, I'm still worried about the gap.
The manual says it's about 4mm, but it's likely to get caught, so I set it to 5mm.
The narrower one looks better, but hmmm.
Again, 5 mm.


Distorted photo...sorry.
Check the level with infrared light.
It feels good and there is no distortion.


Draw a line with magic before you forget. This determines how the gap will be captured.
Then shave it off and add fiber. Add the shavings putty again.


I'm tired so I'm going home ◎


I've pulled out a sizing chart here.
A drawing from 50 years ago... Surprise.
It's three dimensional.
Minus display before 0 reference value. plus display on the back.

Anyway, red pen teacher in millimeter display.


Vertical lines are 0 points before and after.
This is what Americans don't understand.
The 0 point below the top and bottom is the bottom, but I don't understand it.

0 points where the frame was also in the same place.
I wonder if it's a standard where the accident rate is low.


Check the inspection beforehand. The lines are also clean.


here. It was on the extension from the roof.
Now I can confirm that it is centered.

​4-one two three

Oh no. The height of the center and the left and right sides are different.
Which one is off by 2cm...? ? ?
Look for mistakes here. Check one by one while checking the dimension drawing.


That's right, it's spacious from the vinyl garage.
The place where the paint film is scraped off is an unsightly figure.


It stays still even if it's right next to it. Balanced.
It is used as a weight by filling a can with cement.


If you light the fire from below, it will look like a corvette, not a whole pig.
This workbench is very useful.


Added a limit switch for opening and closing the headlamp.
I saw it on Youtube somewhere. Good idea. I'll enjoy having this.


The marking ends and a hole is made.


Level with a height gauge.


Use center drill. This is because the center will escape with a sudden drill.


It will be a big deal if we cut corners here.
Be sure to position yourself.


It's okay if you come this far. Make sure you don't forget the depth of the hole.
Adding two switches makes it easier to do various tricks.


That's all for today ◎

​4-134 2018/7/23

Check the left and right of the headlights Look at the gap with a ruler
Make sure it's balanced.


Try a little tweaking.
Bend an aluminum plate with a drill of a reasonable thickness.
Make 4 of the same.


Put a little putty on the corner of the headlight frame.
Press with the aluminum plate you made earlier.
Making corners with a putty spatula is troublesome.
Simple is better.
Wait for it to dry and remove the aluminum plate.


Try a headlight.
Checking the balance inside and outside.
Pretty good work, do this 4 times


Put the file with the paper in the gap and scrape it.
Scrape while looking at the balance.
When you can't decide at once, repeat the same thing until you can do it, until you run out of patience


Place a 1m ruler at the tip of the hood, use a square pipe under the rear windshield frame and check the distortion with a 1m ruler
Place the two in the same position on the left and right, and check the left and right twists from the base of the fender.
Stand in front and move your body up and down. If the two lines overlap, there is no twist. Put the square pipe 1m ruler in a different place like this. With this, if you see through it again and it overlaps, it will be OK.
Measurements can be made without doing anything special.
By checking the dimensional drawing and creating the dimensions ourselves, the accuracy increases, and it can be said that the dimensions are correct.


The hinge mounting nut part of the hood is rusted and the bolt is broken.  
Drilling and tapping seems useless.
After making an incision and checking the inside, I think about how to repair it.


After all, the rust is terrible Let's remake it.  
Check the necessary materials and how to combine them.
Make the iron plate a little longer and fix it with rivets to the length beyond the resin joint.


Make sure that the holes for fixing bolts with rivets are in their original positions.


Checking the back side Can you see that the rivets are not on the surface 
Insert a counterbore with a drill.
It's a good way to do it in machining.
It penetrates with the thickness of the rivet.
Next, drill a thicker hole than the thickness when crimped, but stop halfway.
Leave a thickness of about 3mm to 5mm, put the rivet in it and crimp it so that the rivet does not stick out from the surface.


The resin is pasted according to the original position.
After fixing it, shape it, and check the overall warpage.


Remove the dirt and scrape it, scraping it with the intention of layering resin as many times as you can.
I want to finish it all at once, but I'm patient.
If you try to finish it all at once, you will make a mistake somewhere.
Patience is required.


I get annoyed when I'm messing with the same place.  
I will be patient while drinking tea.


The back panel is peeling off.
Open the mouth a little, clean the inside, pour in the panel bond, and then fix it with a Shakoman.
Thank you for your hard work for 50 years.
I want you to stay with me for a while.


There is a repair mark before the bonnet side.  
Scrape off as much as you can Putty Scrape off the parts that look bad, and try not to make the hole as big as possible.

You can see the putty marks in the back of the hole, but leave them so that the resin does not flow down.

Stuff the fibers into the holes first. Since it is not possible to process from the back side, the holes should be closed first.
Fix the hinge nut mounting part fixed with 3 rivets and the iron plate with 4 rivets.


I cut it because the master cylinder hits the bonnet back bone.
The hole was slightly misaligned, so I filled it in again.


Measured with the hood removed Is there a measurement error somewhere?


I cut the back bone of the bonnet.
The 1964 has a drum brake, so it has a single master cylinder.
Since it has been replaced with a 4-wheel disc brake, it will be replaced with a disc master cylinder, so processing will be required as it hits the back bone.
This time, compared to the genuine type that I tried made by wilwood, the appearance is slightly larger and it hits the hood.
Even if it hits, it interferes, so I'm wondering whether to go as it is or to modify it.


I made a bracket for back bone processing as usual.
As usual, use available materials, determine the design dimensions, and try setting the glue margin to about 15 mm.
Once the shape has been determined, I apply multiple coats to create thickness.


I'm still not sure if I should drill a hole in the hood.
I don't mind opening it, but I want to do something silly.
It's a C7 type emblem.
I tried making the top half of the C2 toy out of resin, but it stuck to the top mold and couldn't be removed.
It's boring to just put a round bowl shape on it.
Let's think about something A good idea will come out soon.


It looks like it's just putty putty on the outside of the headlight, but it's got the wisdom to raise the level.
The paper tape in the middle is cured so that the putty resin does not stick to it, but there are several layers of tape on the tip.
This is the thickness adjustment.
If the back is 0 points, the gap at the tape is wide, so adjust the thickness of the tape as much as you want to narrow it.
I don't remember, but I think it was 4 or 5 layers, and the thickness was about 3/20 of 1mm.


This is it on such a hot day.  
Beer and mustard tofu.


I measure with a laser.  
The front skirt is well balanced.


For some reason, the positions of the left and right side markers are different by a few millimeters.  
Something like this is acceptable.
American car riders don't care about such things.


Make an enclosure with an aluminum plate on which resin is built up.  
Pour about 10 mm.


Measured with a laser.
Place where the part below the laser is built up.
Scrape up from the laser.


You can see the difference when you measure and compare with a laser.  
Scrape until the left and right sides are even.


Since the top surface is about 70% done, I think I will apply spray putty.
The eyes are scattered and the overall distortion cannot be seen, so dye it in one color.


Distortion is easy to see if it is the same color.  
It was a hot day, so the patties were crumbly.
It was nice to be able to see the fine distortion when the gloss came out, but there is no way to paint on such a hot day without an air conditioner.  
I noticed an unpleasant thing here, even if the headlight cover and the body are familiar, the headlight cover will shift due to the load when the motor is attached.


I can't do it in this heat.  
I want to rest until it cools down.


I removed the door hinge.

If you look at the two on the left, you can see the paint color when the car was new.

it was silver.

The ​ caution plate was also silver.


Door hinge pin, hinge guide,Door side bolt on the left

​6 bolts on the top and 6 bolts on the bottom, right pillar side bolts.


​The other side of this heavy iron mass is pressed and somehow unbalanced.


​ Just opened it.


removed the hinge pin
​There is no play, but it will be troublesome to do it next time, so I will clear it up first.


​Sandblast to remove the paint film and wait for painting.


I got the color.

​It's still hard to tell what color it is