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Corvette Stingray C2 Restore

GARAGE4

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GARAGE4

In this chapter, we will peel off the inner and outer coating, return to the base, and correct the distortion.

Remove all parts.

Fix cracks, deterioration and line disturbances.

​If you cut corners here, it will affect the finish, so it's a game of perseverance.

​4-001  2016/12/27

The cheering squad also came, so I'm going to start processing the body side.
It's been exactly a year since I started working on it.

​4-002

Make a floor by laying an iron plate in a vinyl garage.
Put the body on the dolly inside and make a dedicated workbench. It will be my first challenge.
Check the strength of the single pipe and create an image by considering the approximate weight of the body.

​4-003

Attach a single pipe to the mounting part of the body and frame.
The vertical black pipe uses a thick pipe instead of a single pipe. Weld an iron plate to one side of the pipe, cover it with a lid, and make a hole. I'm going to fix it with the body through the bolt there.

​4-004

Assemble all four in the same way. I will connect long single pipes to the left and right there.
Left and right, front and back, top and bottom, while doing temporary assembly

​4-005

This part will be on the front left side.

Proceed while measuring the left and right in the same way.

​4-006

This part will be the rear mounting part.

I don't think you can tell from these photos.

I think you'll find out as you go along.

​4-007 

This part will be the part behind the right rear tire.
I'm going to put my arm out from here and connect it to a single pipe.

​4-008

This part is the head baffle. It will be the part where the radiator will be attached.
The pipe is extended to the left and right and connected to the front and rear single pipes.

​4-009

I feel like this.
The radiator mounting part, the front body member, the rear body member, and the member behind the rear tire are all connected to a single tube.
Align the left and right sides and adjust while checking the level.

​4-010

It will be the front part. It rotates around the black pipe in the center of the left and right of the headlight.

​4-011

Rotated 90 degrees. It's an acrobatics in this narrow space.

​4-012

Rotated 180 degrees. Rotate 360 degrees.
It is manual, but can be fixed in any position.

I'm thinking about how easy it is to work.

You can't do a good job when people do it in an unreasonable posture.
I enjoy doing this.

​4-013

The gap between the body and the ground is about 15 cm. It's going to be a work while chilling, but it's very easy to work with rotating.
When you rotate it, there are heavy parts and light parts, so proceed while making adjustments.

​4-014

I'll take it apart anyway.

After that, the skin will be exposed, but this is a very difficult and persevering job.
It is difficult to remove the residue from the bond.

It gets tangled in the eyes of the paper and becomes useless immediately.

​4-015

I will do my best until the dirt on the underbody comes out.

I wonder how many days it will take, I feel faint.
As for the body this time, we will divide the work into the front part, the interior, the underbody, and the rear area.

​4-016

I will also disassemble the instrument panel.

First of all, we will finish the interior and underbody.
It's fine to do it all at once, but it's just to make sure you don't forget or lose parts.

You can also enjoy a sense of accomplishment if you finish it little by little.

​4-017   2017/1/18

We will remove the meter. It's burning here and there.
There is also a disconnection. You can also see the short marks.

I will try to take a lot of pictures so that I don't make a mistake because there are similar wiring and light bulbs.

​4-018

You can see a round light bulb in the middle part. There is a light bulb on the left.
The sticking part is made of cardboard.

When I pulled out the light bulb, the cardboard was burnt.
I'm surprised. It doesn't catch fire very often.

​4-019

I have removed the meter.

It is the back side, but there is a short-circuit mark.
The trip meter reset knob extends from the center to the lower left.

It's getting tattered.

​4-020

The insulation is crumbling inside. Ducts cannot be used either.
When I think about finishing this, I feel like it's a long way off.
I haven't finished it yet, so...

​4-021

A set of instrument panel wiring.
It's not that much, but when I got it, I felt like it was more.
It may be hard on the whole, and there may be a lot of resistance to current, so I will replace it with a new one.

​4-022

Dirty. Just wiping with thinner will not clean it.
It is a job that requires perseverance.
I will remove the steel bracket etc. Most are riveted.

​4-023

Still the steel part has rust corrosion.
The window frame is made by layering the glass fiber of the body on the steel frame.
There is rust in the same place on the left and right, and water has accumulated.
I was relieved that this rust was only on the surface.

​4-024

The top of the door catch is also rotten and has a hole.
This part is called a drip rail, and it is like a rain gutter to prevent rainwater from entering the room.
I don't want to change

I have a feeling it's going to be exaggerated.

I'll check it out a little more.

​4-025

The left front pillar is difficult to see in the photo.
This part is very rusty.
When it comes to welding, I have to think about how to deal with the fire on the body itself.

​4-026

Feel free to replace it.
How to replace it... I'm worried about bond alone.
With riveting, if there is a protrusion, the lining may not stick.

​4-027

Since it is attached by spot welding, that part is scraped off with a drill.
The point to show your skill is how to avoid damaging the opponent's main body as much as possible.
It's been over 10 years since I left the field. I'm a little worried.

​4-028

that! connected inside. How far is it? ?

​4-029

Anxiety is on the mark. It's getting more and more exaggerated.
I even cut the body. The troublesome work is increasing.
But it also adds to the fun.

​4-030

The right side is also rusty.

​4-031

For the time being, I will do rust prevention treatment.
Remove the paint and remove the rust from the areas painted black.
You can see the window frame removed inside.

​4-032

American made product. It seems to be popular with people who restore.
I'm looking forward to seeing how much rust can be suppressed with this guy.
Processing of the part here is entrusted until the parts arrive.

​4-033

I was asked to come out of the warehouse.

Let me take another step forward.
I'm going to take care of it while putting oil in it and use it.

​4-034

I'm kind of bored.

I'm starting work for now.
Rest time is longer than work...

​4-035

This is a must. Use an exhaust duct for dust control.
Wrap a towel around your mask and head and proceed with work in full protection.

​4-036

The shift lever is cut off.

I don't remember well because it happened before, but I think it happened like this.
I remembered that it was difficult to remove the shift lever when detaching the engine mission.

I remember it was difficult to remove the propeller shaft bolt.

​4-037

First, let's return it to its original form. The pink one will be the mold.
I put paper tape on the aluminum plate. Do not use a release agent.

Use paper tape instead.
Double layer of paper tape.

Even if the first piece gets entangled in the resin, the second piece of tape can be used to remove the mold.

​4-038

Apply resin and wait for it to dry.

You can clearly see the shape of the mold by applying resin.
It's been a long time since I played with fiberglass.

Adjust the amount of hardener to the specified amount.
The composition of the hardener also changes depending on the season.

​4-039

Since it has hardened, I will set it so that the guide of the shift lever is attached next.
I will cut from where I drew the red line.

Considering workability, it is a detachable type.

The aluminum plate is used as a bracket until the cradle is made.

​4-040

I cut. This is where the fine work begins.

​4-041

  

The aluminum plate cut earlier is fixed.
The tape is a seal so that the liquid of the resin does not leak.

​4-042

This is the view from the mission side.
Paper tape is also used as a release agent. It's double layered.
It is easier to turn over the paper tape if it is lightly stretched rather than firmly pressed.

​4-043

I just finished pasting the glass fiber resin.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it will be finished.

About 7 to 8 sheets are stacked in this frame part.
There are many types of fibers.

I use #380 which is easy to use.

​4-044

I just removed the mold. Two pieces of paper tape are correct.
I will wait for it to dry for the time being.
If you continue like this, it will become sticky and difficult to work with.

​4-045

Ribs are ready. Start cutting from here.
The thickness is about 6mm.

​4-046

It will be a picture from the back side. You can clearly see that it is thick.
We will adjust the thickness and width.

​4-047

Temporarily attach the jack nut and determine the width while aligning the position.

​4-048

Since the width position has been decided, I will cut it.

​4-049

Install the jacknut and you are done.

​4-050

If you can make a service hole this big, the work will be expedited.
Installation of the shift lever and installation of the propeller shaft can be done at once.

It will be work considering the exchange from M / T mission to A / T mission someday.

​4-051

Right rear tire house.
A hammer, a chisel for woodworking, etc. will be used to remove coatings, sealers, etc.

You always come to know what is good towards the end.

​4-052

will be on the other side. Dirt will come off little by little.
Just silently delete it.

​4-053

A little dirt has come off.

Remove the steel parts from here.
We will continue to repair fiberglass.
You can also see cracks and scorching from the muffler.

If you don't consider the position of the muffler and install it, the car will burn.

​4-054

It's time for swallows. It's time for a little break.
A longer break...

​4-055

Now that the base material is exposed and the interior is clean, I will apply the top coat.

​4-056

It's painted over. It would be nice if you could calm down with the luster as it is☆

​4-057

The entire room is painted.

​4-058

The underbody color looks different, but although it is gray, this bluish color looks better.

​4-059

Finishing the engine room. I think it looks great.
I will compliment myself. A gift of canned coffee.

​4-060

I'm going to repair the left inner fender. You can see that it splits vertically.
I'm going to put glass fiber on it, so I'm going to drop the dirt with paper.

​4-061

It will be a picture from the tire house on the side where the tire is attached.
Remove dirt and treat with paper to make it easier to stick.

​4-062

It's ready. The one on the right is a special wooden mold.
Apply two pieces of paper tape according to the mold.

Substitute for release agent.

​4-063

Paste the class fiber. We will hold the wooden pattern with a clamp.
This hold will be the point. Don't hold back too much or not enough.

​4-064

It will be a picture from the tire house. Parts that cannot be done with wooden molds are screwed to aluminum plates.

​4-065

I removed the wooden mold. I'm going to scrape off the protruding place.

​4-066

It's just scraped off.
It's quite a workmanship even with a sloppy wooden pattern.
I am satisfied ◎

​4-067

I just removed the wooden pattern from the tire house.

This is also a great result.

​4-068

The joint of the inner fender was rough, so I puttyed it, but...
I don't have a before picture. It has nice rounded lines.

​4-069

I will reveal the seeds.
I applied paper tape to the pipe, applied putty, and pressed the pipe on top of it to make a mold.
Once it was dry and removed, it rolled up together with the putty. Drying is recommended.

​4-070

From here I will enter the head light relationship.
This part is for mounting the headlight motor and fixing the left and right headlights.
The one above is what I have used so far. Below are the replacement parts.

​4-071

It becomes a bracket to attach the left and right headlights.
If you make a mistake in this position, the headlight will be distorted.

​4-072

Flip the body over and attach it.
Since the steel part and glass fiber cannot be attached, a piece of part is inserted in the middle, fixed with rivets, and then fixed with panel bond.
The pot life is about 30 minutes, so proceed with caution.

​4-073

Next, install the left and right brackets.
Measure the left and right balance and fix it 10 mm wider than the headlight body.
Next, measure the gap between the top and bottom. Glue with panel bond.

​4-074

fixed in this way.
I'm going to scrape off the protruding bond part and shape it.

​4-075

Next is the part where the hood is opened, but what do you say...? ?
Is it the folded part, the flange?
It was a mess, so I scraped it off and remade it☆

​4-076

The material is a 5mm square plastic stick found at a home center, 1m long.
Heat it with a heater and bend it. I used 6 bottles including practice.

​4-077

Collect and fix as much as you can, such as Shakoman and clamps. I also use panel bond.
This bond has a pot life of about 30 minutes, so you can work slowly and accurately, and you can redo it, so it is useful.

​4-078

I painted.
I got the whole atmosphere. Now you can see the roughness, so you can start finishing.  
Dyed in the same color as it becomes difficult to check with the color of the base, the color of the putty, and other colors.

​4-079

I'm going to finish the putty.

​4-080

The left inner groundwork is finished.

​4-081

From here, we will finish the rear area.
For the finish painting of the front part, after the lower part has been processed, paint from the front to the back at once.

Cut the rear end panel.

If you look closely at the part where the paint has been peeled off, you can see black streaks.

It will be the connecting part, so cut it.

​4-082

I cut. The previous finish is not good, so I will replace it with a new panel.

​4-083

What is held down by Shakoman is the backing for attaching external sales panels.
I forgot the name of the part... I'm going to scrape the back and put out the level.

​4-084

Installed. It looks good, but the new panel is distorted.
I should have ordered a pressed product without being stingy.

I regret it.
I'm still relieved because it looks like it's going to be hidden by the bumper...

​4-085

will be up. Panel bond sticks out.
Secure with a drill screw, and remove the screw when dry.
It is patchy and unsightly.

​4-086

It's from the back. Attach a wire stopper to the back.
Thanks to this backing, it is easy to measure.

​4-087

After the panel bond dried, I scraped off the protruding part and pasted the glass fiber.
When dry, scrape again.

​4-088

I scraped off the paint film on the left rear fender. The lines are clean.
Also, you can see a black line from front to back about 3 cm below the top.
This will also be the part that connects the top and bottom.

​4-089

I just painted it. I painted it before the glass fiber dried, so it was rough.
Finally, I will paint the whole thing, so I will reprocess it.

​4-090

I have all the parts that I used to cut and left as they are, so I'm going to replace them.

​4-091

Clean after replacement.
Originally, it was fixed by spot welding, but after much deliberation, it was fixed by panel bond and rivet.  
I don't want it to rust. Because now there is a very good adhesive ◎

​4-092

Reinstall the cut panel in its original position.

​4-093

Differentiate between coarse and fine fibers. Proceed while checking the familiarity with the resin.

​4-094

From here we will open the door.
Chisels are necessities, the one I used to scrape off the paint in the old days was the one that I put on my waist and shaved by hand to make a surface plate. I borrowed it from the president of a company that did machining and cut it. I remember my hands full of beans.

​4-095  

Just scrape the outside.

​4-096

Fleas are great☆
I'm not good at sharpening chisels, but when I sharpen well, the paint film rises up like a fountain and is very beautiful. But goggles are a must.

​4-097

Prepare the surfacer by spreading paper 80 evenly.

​4-098

​Finish the back in the same way.

​4-099

Yes, we've come this far ◎
The surfacer is finished on the left and right of the door, but the real thing starts from here.
It's just a matter of removing all the dirt from the past. I'm going to put my heart into the face of the future.

​4-100 2018/3/12

Apply strain relief putty. I'm not good at this.
Anyway, scrape it off and apply putty. Scrape, paint, repeat...

​4-101

scrape off the paint. I'm going to take out the base. Scrape while checking for scratches and cracks.

​4-102

Apply the putty after the paint film has been scraped off. and scrape.
The dryer has only one power supply for the jet heater 100V.

​4-103

Far infrared dryer 100V power is not available. I want 200V, but I can't pull in the wiring. Let's endure.

​4-104

Most of the putty processing is nearing the end, but...

​4-105

The rear view of this car is nice.
Scrape Scrape until you are satisfied. Recently my eyesight has deteriorated.
It's hard to tell if it's not glossy...

​4-106

Temporarily attach the tail lamp. It was sharp.
The number frame is not familiar. Bad panel or bad parts?
This is homework for later.

​4-107

Apply spray putty. Drying is a far-infrared dryer and a jet heater.
Let's take it easy ◎

​4-108

I feel refreshed. It's been almost 20 years since I left the site, but I wonder if I can still use it ☆

​4-109

Yes, it's finished drying. Let's cut it. Let's apply the putty.
Scrape until the distortion disappears. Let's apply the putty. until you are satisfied.

​4-110

From here we will finish the front end.
Scrape off the paint film and apply a little putty to see the balance.

​4-111

I have had several accidents before.
The front panel has been replaced from the middle.
After all, I think that the genuine product has a good level of perfection.
The replaced parts seem to be a little inferior, but I have no choice but to do it.

​4-112

There are 3 head lamp cases. It must have been broken in an accident before the red one above.
Made by hand. The one below is new.
The dimensions are slightly different, but they are well made. Amazing☆

​4-113

I tried to pretend. The left and right brackets are tight.
Make sure you are in position. It seems to be moderate.

​4-114

How many millimeters should the left gap be adjusted to?

​4-115

Right, I'm still worried about the gap.
The manual says it's about 4mm, but it's likely to get caught, so I set it to 5mm.
The narrower one looks better, but hmmm.
Again, 5 mm.

​4-116

Distorted photo...sorry.
Check the level with infrared light.
It feels good and there is no distortion.

​4-117

Draw a line with magic before you forget. This determines how the gap will be captured.
Then shave it off and add fiber. Add the shavings putty again.

​4-118

I'm tired so I'm going home ◎

​4-119 

I've pulled out a sizing chart here.
A drawing from 50 years ago... Surprise.
It's three dimensional.
Minus display before 0 reference value. plus display on the back.

Anyway, red pen teacher in millimeter display.

​4-120

Vertical lines are 0 points before and after.
This is what Americans don't understand.
The 0 point below the top and bottom is the bottom, but I don't understand it.

0 points where the frame was also in the same place.
I wonder if it's a standard where the accident rate is low.

​4-121

Check the inspection beforehand. The lines are also clean.

​4-122

here. It was on the extension from the roof.
Now I can confirm that it is centered.

​4-one two three

Oh no. The height of the center and the left and right sides are different.
Which one is off by 2cm...? ? ?
Look for mistakes here. Check one by one while checking the dimension drawing.

​4-124

That's right, it's spacious from the vinyl garage.
The place where the paint film is scraped off is an unsightly figure.

​4-125

It stays still even if it's right next to it. Balanced.
It is used as a weight by filling a can with cement.

​4-126

If you light the fire from below, it will look like a corvette, not a whole pig.
This workbench is very useful.

​4-127

Added a limit switch for opening and closing the headlamp.
I saw it on Youtube somewhere. Good idea. I'll enjoy having this.

​4-128

The marking ends and a hole is made.

​4-129

Level with a height gauge.

​4-130

Use center drill. This is because the center will escape with a sudden drill.

​4-131

It will be a big deal if we cut corners here.
Be sure to position yourself.

​4-132

It's okay if you come this far. Make sure you don't forget the depth of the hole.
Adding two switches makes it easier to do various tricks.

​4-133

That's all for today ◎

​4-134 2018/7/23

Check the left and right of the headlights Look at the gap with a ruler
Make sure it's balanced.

​4-135

Try a little tweaking.
Bend an aluminum plate with a drill of a reasonable thickness.
Make 4 of the same.

​4-136

Put a little putty on the corner of the headlight frame.
Press with the aluminum plate you made earlier.
Making corners with a putty spatula is troublesome.
Simple is better.
Wait for it to dry and remove the aluminum plate.

​4-137

Try a headlight.
Checking the balance inside and outside.
Pretty good work, do this 4 times

​4-138

Put the file with the paper in the gap and scrape it.
Scrape while looking at the balance.
When you can't decide at once, repeat the same thing until you can do it, until you run out of patience

​4-139

Place a 1m ruler at the tip of the hood, use a square pipe under the rear windshield frame and check the distortion with a 1m ruler
Place the two in the same position on the left and right, and check the left and right twists from the base of the fender.
Stand in front and move your body up and down. If the two lines overlap, there is no twist. Put the square pipe 1m ruler in a different place like this. With this, if you see through it again and it overlaps, it will be OK.
Measurements can be made without doing anything special.
By checking the dimensional drawing and creating the dimensions ourselves, the accuracy increases, and it can be said that the dimensions are correct.

​4-140

The hinge mounting nut part of the hood is rusted and the bolt is broken.  
Drilling and tapping seems useless.
After making an incision and checking the inside, I think about how to repair it.

​4-141

After all, the rust is terrible Let's remake it.  
Check the necessary materials and how to combine them.
Make the iron plate a little longer and fix it with rivets to the length beyond the resin joint.

​4-142

Make sure that the holes for fixing bolts with rivets are in their original positions.

​4-143

Checking the back side Can you see that the rivets are not on the surface 
Insert a counterbore with a drill.
It's a good way to do it in machining.
It penetrates with the thickness of the rivet.
Next, drill a thicker hole than the thickness when crimped, but stop halfway.
Leave a thickness of about 3mm to 5mm, put the rivet in it and crimp it so that the rivet does not stick out from the surface.

​4-144

The resin is pasted according to the original position.
After fixing it, shape it, and check the overall warpage.

​4-145

Remove the dirt and scrape it, scraping it with the intention of layering resin as many times as you can.
I want to finish it all at once, but I'm patient.
If you try to finish it all at once, you will make a mistake somewhere.
Patience is required.

​4-146

I get annoyed when I'm messing with the same place.  
I will be patient while drinking tea.

​4-147

The back panel is peeling off.
Open the mouth a little, clean the inside, pour in the panel bond, and then fix it with a Shakoman.
Thank you for your hard work for 50 years.
I want you to stay with me for a while.

​4-148

There is a repair mark before the bonnet side.  
Scrape off as much as you can Putty Scrape off the parts that look bad, and try not to make the hole as big as possible.

You can see the putty marks in the back of the hole, but leave them so that the resin does not flow down.

Stuff the fibers into the holes first. Since it is not possible to process from the back side, the holes should be closed first.
Fix the hinge nut mounting part fixed with 3 rivets and the iron plate with 4 rivets.

​4-149

I cut it because the master cylinder hits the bonnet back bone.
The hole was slightly misaligned, so I filled it in again.

​4-150

Measured with the hood removed Is there a measurement error somewhere?

​4-151

I cut the back bone of the bonnet.
The 1964 has a drum brake, so it has a single master cylinder.
Since it has been replaced with a 4-wheel disc brake, it will be replaced with a disc master cylinder, so processing will be required as it hits the back bone.
This time, compared to the genuine type that I tried made by wilwood, the appearance is slightly larger and it hits the hood.
Even if it hits, it interferes, so I'm wondering whether to go as it is or to modify it.

​4-152

I made a bracket for back bone processing as usual.
As usual, use available materials, determine the design dimensions, and try setting the glue margin to about 15 mm.
Once the shape has been determined, I apply multiple coats to create thickness.

​4-153

I'm still not sure if I should drill a hole in the hood.
I don't mind opening it, but I want to do something silly.
It's a C7 type emblem.
I tried making the top half of the C2 toy out of resin, but it stuck to the top mold and couldn't be removed.
It's boring to just put a round bowl shape on it.
Let's think about something A good idea will come out soon.

​4-154

It looks like it's just putty putty on the outside of the headlight, but it's got the wisdom to raise the level.
The paper tape in the middle is cured so that the putty resin does not stick to it, but there are several layers of tape on the tip.
This is the thickness adjustment.
If the back is 0 points, the gap at the tape is wide, so adjust the thickness of the tape as much as you want to narrow it.
I don't remember, but I think it was 4 or 5 layers, and the thickness was about 3/20 of 1mm.

​4-155

This is it on such a hot day.  
Beer and mustard tofu.

​4-156

I measure with a laser.  
The front skirt is well balanced.

​4-157

For some reason, the positions of the left and right side markers are different by a few millimeters.  
Something like this is acceptable.
American car riders don't care about such things.

​4-158

Make an enclosure with an aluminum plate on which resin is built up.  
Pour about 10 mm.

​4-159

Measured with a laser.
Place where the part below the laser is built up.
Scrape up from the laser.

​4-160

You can see the difference when you measure and compare with a laser.  
Scrape until the left and right sides are even.

​4-161

Since the top surface is about 70% done, I think I will apply spray putty.
The eyes are scattered and the overall distortion cannot be seen, so dye it in one color.

​4-162

Distortion is easy to see if it is the same color.  
It was a hot day, so the patties were crumbly.
It was nice to be able to see the fine distortion when the gloss came out, but there is no way to paint on such a hot day without an air conditioner.  
I noticed an unpleasant thing here, even if the headlight cover and the body are familiar, the headlight cover will shift due to the load when the motor is attached.
shock.

​4-163

I can't do it in this heat.  
I want to rest until it cools down.

​4-164

I removed the door hinge.

If you look at the two on the left, you can see the paint color when the car was new.

it was silver.

The ​ caution plate was also silver.

​4-165

Door hinge pin, hinge guide,Door side bolt on the left

​6 bolts on the top and 6 bolts on the bottom, right pillar side bolts.

​4-166

​The other side of this heavy iron mass is pressed and somehow unbalanced.

​4-167

​ Just opened it.

​4-168

removed the hinge pin
​There is no play, but it will be troublesome to do it next time, so I will clear it up first.

​4-169

​Sandblast to remove the paint film and wait for painting.

​4-170

I got the color.

​It's still hard to tell what color it is

​4