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Corvette Stingray C2 Restore




In this chapter, we will do engine O/H, mission O/H, and differential O/H.

I was planning to see it off this time, but I'm starting to feel sorry if I don't do it.

​I'll try as far as I can.


I'm going to take the engine apart.
The C2 engine has been replaced with the engine that was on the 1974 Camaro. Look for the specification table.


My engine seems to be L-48-185BHP.
If you look for the specifications and understand the specifications, you can modify it in any way.


These words will be the 1970 Camaro.

At this time, L-48.300BHP.
It looks like Z-28-360BHP.


I am using the block of GM-3970010.
The right side seems to represent the manufacturing base and the date.
I don't know the actual


It will be called an engine that is landing in Osaka. The 42nd University is stamped at the land transportation branch office in Osaka. CLK on the right is Engine Suffix Codes.
Other missions, rear axles, and factory option codes are also available☆


I will attach it to the engine stand in moderation.
This is a handmade stand. I made it as a general-purpose type.
After this, we will use this stand for missions, differentials, etc.


Turn the engine over and drain the water.


It is a dirty engine with no sex appeal from any angle.
It's like an engine on a heavy machine.


It's been 30 years since the engine was taken apart.
I'm somehow excited while remembering the past memories.


Not surprisingly dirty.

I keep it clean.
I'm looking forward to spreading it out more and more.


There is little carbon, there are no scratches on the cylinder, and there are traces of honing.
It doesn't look like you ran into it that much.


The cylinder head is also beautiful.

It seems that the area around the gasket is good and there is no distortion.


I broke a bolt...
Remove the bolts with oxygen and acetylene cylinders.
I used to do it well.


This is it ◎


The underside is also beautiful.


There is no yellowing, and the crankshaft and the traces of lathe processing are clearly visible. It is also 4 bolts and it seems that the power can be raised.


I made it in a hurry. I don't have a pulley remover.
Drill a hole in the ready-to-use iron plate and tap it.


Checking the position of the eye mark ◎ Practice when assembling.


It's falling apart. Satisfied with stimulation after a long time☆


the pistons. I am relieved that there is no scar on my skirt.
Next, we will prepare the parts order.


Check parent metal clearance. It's OK.



Well done ◎ This work is limited to winter.
I enjoyed putting the kerosene stove on the side and putting a pot of "oden" on it.



Align the valves so that they are not mistaken.
If you make a mistake, the area with the valve seat will change.


The camshaft and crankshaft will be used as they are without any worms.
Stamp with a punch so as not to make a mistake on the cap, conrod, cylinder block, etc.


The crankshaft weighs 24.5kg. Cylinder block 70kg, cylinder head 19kg x 2 = 38kg. Others + about 200 kg ... It is heavy ☆


After cleaning, apply a masking primer.
This time, I lightly broiled the surface with oxygen gas to remove the oil and fat.


Mix with a weigher. Weighing is required.
When you pull out your hands, the finish is not good enough.


The groundwork was painted ☆


It is painted. not yellow. It is bright yellow.
For some reason, I like bright yellow, not yellow or orange.
Actually, it is the color of Toyota's aqua ☆


Attach the blank lid from here. Check the oil hole again.


Apply seal packing. I didn't paint it when the car was new, but I painted it to prevent trouble later ◎


Completion ◎
Finish the other sides in the same way.


Let's finish the head cover.
Remove grease and sandblast.
Recently, papering has become troublesome.


Finished sandblasting. I'm going to do a heavy sanding on the fins.
After painting, I was able to prepare it so that it would shine brightly...☆


It's painted so it's dry. The instruction says to bake it at 120 degrees, but last time it was winter, so the temperature was a little low, so I thought I'd try it in the summer this time, and it was a success.
Since the temperature has exceeded 120 degrees, lower the temperature.


It's beautifully baked... but it's dripping. disappointed.
Well, I got the gist of it all. Let's think about repainting and proceed to the finish ◎


The fin part is finished by scraping with paper.
Then put the stickers on.


To flatten the block and head with the whetstone, first flatten the whetstone.
Sharpen the whetstone with the gutter cover or block using the method taught by the cutlery man.
This is sick again.


Even if you cut the port, put the gasket on it and cut the part smaller than the marking hole.
Finish so that there are no steps. If you shave too much, the balance will be lost, so be careful not to shave too much. Minimize because there is a problem of volume ☆


Bake the head with a burner.
Bake the coating on the surface. At the same time, the oil burns, making it easier to paint.
Exfoliate with a skeleton. The finish is washed with water. I don't want to use water, so I'm going to bake it.


It's been 30 years since I checked the valves.
This time, I will check it while looking around at the extent of carbon removal.


I just dropped the carbon while saying it was well done...


I'm going to paint the cylinder head.
Oil and fat are also dropped and degreased.


Try weighing it. About 20kg... heavy.
I shudder at the thought of dropping it on my foot.


Finish sandblasting and proceed with painting from the base



Dye the undercoat white. So that the bright yellow color comes out well.


It's a good result☆


I also painted the cylinder head.


I made a temporary assembly. It goes well with the black crystal paint.  
I like the combination of bright yellow and black ◎

​5-050    2018/12/20

Well, from here I will do O / H of the manual transmission.  
When I was a student, I worked part-time at a dismantling shop, so I'm good at ballasts, but I've never really built one.  
But it will work out.  
I remembered that the mounting part is broken.  
I remember wondering why.


Let's start with Barashite.  
While taking pictures While looking at the manual 
I feel like it's too small to attach to a V8 engine. .  
It's heavy enough to be lifted by one person, but the A/T mission is not very heavy.


The mission itself is small compared to the housing.  
I'm using an engine hanger, but it fits nicely 


When you break it down, something strange comes out.  
Anxiety is likely to grow.  


Fewer bearings.  
I wonder if it's falling inside. The shaft is also rattling.  
I'm getting more and more anxious.  


What is it again?  
Maybe I'm missing a gear.  
Well, we've come this far, so let's break it down.  
I wonder if I'm losing the power of the engine.  


Mission balancing work.  
Shim Engagement Carefully check the condition of tooth contact.  


The central part is out.  
It looks good on your teeth.  
Relatively common dirt, this seems to be enough just to replace consumable parts.  


I just finished dismantling.  
It's a simple build and I'm relieved I'm worried about assembling it because it's complicated, I haven't messed with it for years, so I don't want to reassemble it because I have one or two leftovers, so I took a lot of pictures so I could check it. will do.  


It is an overhaul kit.  
It is a special tool for the large swana on the left.  
Used for tightening large, thin nuts.  
Tighten the nut around the neck of Mendora, but there is no oil seal, and there is no gas release. Oil leaks. Mineral oil is specified.  
It can't be helped, because it was made with the designer's idea in mind


They seem to be spreading their hands.  
The broken one was regenerated by welding.  
I feel some kind of pain.  
Surgery successful.  


Viewed from the other side.  
You will be able to play without any problems before.  
Next is the cutting work.  


Cutting completed.  
It feels better than before.  
I will check that the surface is also out.  


Completed cutting on the other side.  
This will allow you to tighten the bolts with no problem.  
I wonder why this part broke.  


I also made a drain plug.  
Do Americans not change oil, or do they drain?  
I'm going to shake it off because I can do it either way.  


Remove dirt by sandblasting.

Sandblasting is great.

Even if you do your best with a wire brush or paper like this, the dirt won't come off easily.

The only difficulty is cleaning the sand, because the dust is so great.

​The preparation is difficult, but the finish is the best.


From here, we will build it up.

Mission stand, engine stand, differential stand, all common, square block and bracket length, if you adjust it, you can use it for anything. ​



Gear is also assembled.

​I will put this in the case.




This guy.

Special tool, you can't take apart without this guy.

​You think about many things.



 The gear fits in the case, so I'm relieved.



​ This is a side view.




​Although there was little decrease in the replaced parts and synchros, I will replace them as much as possible.




​Lower shift lever




This also seems to be a small decrease.

​ Clean and replace the grease.




Neutral is slightly severe, adjusting with a rod so that it feels right.



​ completed

Let's take another step forward. ​


​5-076 6/25/2019

​Challenge the differential O/H.

First experience, non-slip differential, what kind of structure is it?

Is the spring visible in the center pushing the clutch plate?

It looks a little different than what you see on youtube.

​Let's proceed anyway.



Try turning the diff with a drill.

​Check for backlash before ballasting.



​ Komyotan? Koumeitan? how much

​Wait anyway, let's see how Gya hits.




The ring is shimmable.

​I have a vague understanding.



​When I disassembled it, it didn't look like anything, but it seems to be deep.



First of all, get as much knowledge as possible from the manual. ​



​ Parts configuration diagram, first get information from your eyes.



​O/H parts

It contains various suspicious hearts.

As I found out later, the parts used for each model year are different.

​It seems that the thickness of the shim is different depending on the model year, and the way of assembling the mid gear is different.



​By sandblasting to remove rust, use the 1964 case.



​It is designed to be adjusted between the mid gear bearings.



​If you don't press the bearing all the way in, it will rattle later, so be careful not to damage the bearing.



​ Replace the normal differential with a non-slip differential.
​First, look at the mechanism for distributing parts.



​ There are two types of non-slip clutch, normal clutch and carbon fiber, I chose carbon because the description was good.

​I can't wait to see what it looks like.



​ will be assembled.



​ Hold down with copper wire so that the spring does not escape.



​Insert the crowbar and turn it to check the feel before and after the ballast.

I don't have a torque wrench, so it's done manually.

It feels a little loose.



Next is the adjustment of gear engagement.

I don't understand the reasoning now.

​I tried rearranging it many times, and it's like this.



​64 74 Although the case looks the same,

​Left 64 years It looks like oxidized silver



​The thickness of the shim at the side yoke is completely different.

​It seems to be slightly different depending on the year.




Put in the left and right crowbars and see how the force is applied again.

I think it will work, but if it doesn't work, let's take it apart again.

​My hobby is destroying balachites.



From here, the power steering pump.



There were too many kinds to order, so I was at a loss.

​ I'm relieved somehow.


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